Thursday, March 13, 2025

Bahamas 2025


Unfortunately, weather only allowed for a short stay in the Berry Islands…one of our favorite places!  Under normal circumstances we try to never let a ‘schedule’ determine our movement, as this is how boats usually get in to trouble, but we had to be in Nassau by December 18 to see our oldest granddaughter, Alexis, compete in Gymnastics.  A weather window opened about a week before we wanted to leave the Berries, and the extended forecast showed it was our only chance to get to Nassau before the competition…so we took the window, and had a great passage.

Once in Nassau we anchored at Junkanoo Beach, near the cruise ship terminal, for one night, then moved to Athol Island for protection from the strong north wind, which blew for the next 7 days. The ‘schedule’ ended up working out perfectly, and we checked into our slip at Atlantis Marina right on time.
Cruise ships were moving every evening and every morning.
 

So happy to be able to take Alexis and her friends (and their families) out on the boat during their ‘down’ time.

Wonderful to have some family time with Christopher, Christina, and Alexis!

Fun for everyone.

The competition was spectacular! Great job, girls😘


We left Atlantis on Dec. 23, and headed to the northern Exumas (luckily the weather cooperated).


We enjoyed a beautiful and peaceful Christmas on anchor at Little Spirit Cay, and spent the afternoon on this beach.


People are surprised to see that we do decorate, but due to space constraints all of our decorations must fit in one bin. This has caused me to be very selective and a little creative👍


Our next ‘scheduled’ stop was Staniel Cay. Nicole and the girls were scheduled to fly into Staniel on January 6.  There was no pressure or worry about making it, since once we were in the lee (the side sheltered from the wind) of the Exuma chain it was easy to move from island to island without going into rough water. We had more than a week to cover less than 50 miles. It was island hopping at its best!

The short hops left ample time for snorkeling, and we were on a mission to stock some lobster for our incoming guests…success!

Everyone arrived safely, and we had one week to explore the northern Exumas with three of our favorite girls😘

 














An amazing time was had by all, and we were super happy to catch up with Eddie & Gail, before Nicole had to leave.

Nicole flew out of Staniel on Jan. 14, and Lucy and Maggie stayed on Right Hand for another two and a half weeks! During that time, we traveled from Staniel to Great Exuma exploring islands and snorkel grounds that were new to all of us.
Apparently, David Copperfield commissioned this underwater statue to be installed near his private island.

This is the most amazing osprey nest I have ever seen!




This bull shark visited our boat, two evenings in a row…time to relocate our boat!






The day before the girls were scheduled to fly home, we attempted one final snorkel excursion. We didn’t have high expectations, as the wind had been very strong, waves (outside) were still high, and visibility was less than ideal.  We found a small reef that looked very damaged, but to our amazement we experienced the most incredible sighting of an octopus we had ever witnessed! 

Keith was the first to spot it, but by the time he corralled us back to the spot it was gone. We swam very slowly, keeping still for long periods of time, until it was spotted in a small cave. The octopus would stick an eye out and look at us, then duck back inside. Eventually she/he must have concluded that we were harmless, and it started to move along the reef. At times the movement looked like a lava flow. In all, this beautiful creature showed itself 5 different times…WOW!

I told Lucy that she inspired the good octopus omen, because she had just finished reading ‘Remarkably Bright Creatures’ the day before, and we talked about how amazing and elusive octopi seemed to be!


On Jan. 28, I accompanied the girls back to Charleston from Great Exuma Island.

In a few days, I’ll catch you up on our February excitement.


Sunday, December 1, 2024

We’re Back

 


Hello from Great Harbour Marina! Yes, this is the same location as the last time I posted, in April, but the boat has not been here all of that time.  In fact, we just checked into the Bahamas yesterday, November 30.




The last time I posted, I was leaving the boat in the marina so I could fly home to check on both Keith, and my dad.  


I’m going to give you the ‘Cliff Notes’ version of the past 8 months…


My son returned, with me, to Great Harbour to help me overnight the boat back to Florida

It did feel like quite an accomplishment to be back in the U.S.  

I continue north alone, from West Palm to Fernandina beach…on one engine.  The trip went well, but was complicated by the loss of my port engine.  I developed a raw water leak at the exhaust elbow, and decided to shut that engine down, to be safe.  This required better planning and timing on my part, as the maneuverability of this vessel is drastically reduced with one engine.


Finally, by mid May, Keith was well enough to join me in Fernandina with the goal of getting the boat to the Chesapeake, where we planned to spend the summer.  Keith was still plagued with unexplained fevers, and by this time my dad was diagnosed with esophageal cancer.
 

In Oriental, NC we did a crew change, and Keith’s brother joined him on the boat to continue north. While I returned to MD to attend my niece’s graduation.

Thankful to be able to spend a few days with family! This is one of the last pictures taken of my dad.  Unfortunately, he passed unexpectedly on July 4.

While in many ways, our summer was very difficult…we were blessed to have the opportunity to be surrounded by family and friends.

So grateful to attend the wedding of Eddie and Gail’s daughter…what a beautiful event!


Anna still got her boat time, but instead of a Caribbean Island she had a Bay adventure!
Before boat time, she wanted to explore the museums in DC.

Kayaking the Sassafras 

This was her favorite activity 

It turns out, she is an excellent crabber!

As summer progressed, Keith’s right lung slowly healed, and by the beginning of September the fevers diminished, and all of his scans came back clear.

We spent the last few weeks, before departure catching up with friends.

We took Amy to Thomas Point to get pictures for her 2024 gingerbread extravaganza.


Amazing!


By the end of September, Keith had the ‘all clear’ from all doctors, and we began to plan our departure from Maryland.  By October 1 we were heading south.


It was fun to, once again, watch for interesting boats.

And just enjoy the sights and sounds of life on the water.

 




During our trip south, we restocked our freezer with local delicacies.

Our biggest upgrade was a new refrigerator, while in Fernandina Beach.


We are fully provisioned, and back in the Bahamas.  Our cruise here was amazing…




It feels good to be back!







Friday, April 12, 2024

The Continuing Saga

  Well, another month has passed since my last post, and I must report that our trying times have continued to haunt us.  Not sure if we should call it bad karma, hexed juju, or negative mojo, but the energy in our universe is in total disarray!  Weather systems have battered me during my past month of solo boating, and Keith’s health has been a roller coaster from feeling better (and purchasing tickets to return) to being admitted to the hospital with all hope of returning (this year) dashed.☹️


March 20…My plan to chill with my tribe, for a few days, was quickly cut short when warnings of a severe weather system approaching, were released. The problem with this system was that winds were expected to be exceptionally high (30-40 mph) for an extended period of time, and would be clocking from all directions.  There are no safe anchorages, in the Berry Islands, that provide protection from all directions, and moving to new locations as the winds shift is really not an option single handed in 40 mph winds.


At that time, I was anchored about midway down the Berry Island chain.  The wind speed forecast was concerning enough, but the duration of 36+ hours was too much for me to contemplate battling alone. For several days I looked at all options, and tried to get into either of the two marinas in the Berry Islands, but both were full. My only option seemed to be running 70 miles to Bight of Old Robinson in Abaco.  I prepared the boat for the passage and moved the boat out of the anchorage, at high tide, to be staged for an early departure the next morning.  

After dinner, I went online to check one last time to see if any slips had come available at Chubb Cay Marina.  Alas, one 70’ slip (my boat is only 50’ long) was available for the shocking price of $600/night😳😳😳. Realistically, I would need to arrive the night before the event started, stay the two nights of the actual system, and stay one additional night to let the ocean lay down a little.  WOW…was I really considering spending $2400 for four nights in a marina? Yes…yes I was, and after having a quick conversation with Keith, I booked the slip.

It took a lot of work to get the boat tied up for storm conditions, but after 10 lines and 4 large fenders, I declared her ready to weather the storm!  Floating docks make this setup sooo much easier!
After all of the stress and preparations regarding this storm, I took the afternoon off to recharge.

I felt confident this marina would provide excellent protection.


And protection is what I got…look at the palm trees in the background.  The wind is clearly screaming, but the water here is calm…no crashing waves!


Also, I decided to take advantage of the convenience of the Customs and Immigration Office at Chubb Cay to request an extension for my cruising permit and visa.  Keith and I checked into the Bahamas on January 1, and were given a 90 day cruising permit and 90 day visa…both (in my mind) set to expire on March 28.

While filling out all of the paperwork, the immigrations officer took my passport, to make a photocopy for the application. He happened to notice that I arrived in the Bahamas on February 2. I actually had briefly forgotten, that I left the country for one day to escort my granddaughters home. When I returned, I had to present the cruising permit and explain that my husband and I would be traveling south on our boat, and would be checking out of the Bahamas and into Dominican Republic no later than March 28.  He welcomed me, said have a nice trip and handed back all of my paperwork. At that time, it never occurred to me to look at my passport. Apparently he only gave me 30 days to be in the country, and now the immigrations officer explained to me that I have been in the country illegally for almost a month.😳 Protocol was for him to arrest me immediately.🥹🥹🥹

I’m not ashamed to admit that this was my breaking point! Now, fighting back tears, I tried to explain the circumstances of the past few weeks. The immigrations officer was very kind and assured me that he would do everything in his power to avoid arresting me, but he had to go to his superiors for direction. After the first call, I was told that I wouldn’t be arrested, but would have to appear in court in Nassau, and would most likely receive a large fine.  

Thankfully, he didn’t stop with that answer, and after several more phone calls, he got permission to pre-date my extension in my passport, which now shows that I have been in the country legally the entire time.  He did stress to me that the only reason I was not arrested was because I had come into the office with the intention of extending…if this situation had been noticed during a ‘spot check’, he 100% guarantees I would have been arrested!

During all of this, Keith had been looking for tickets to fly into Great Harbour to rejoin me, as he was feeling much better…BUT, on the same day as my near arrest, he received a call that he might have been exposed to Covid, the day before…ugh! He moved out of my Dad’s house and into a hotel, just in case.

On March 26, in less than ideal conditions, I made my way back to Comfort Cay with the hope of being able to enjoy relative protection from northeast and east winds, for the next few days.  If Kieth continues to improve and does not test positive for Covid after 7 days, he planned to purchase tickets to rejoin me on Saturday April 6.

In the meantime, I did have a few nice days to explore Little Harbour Cay…






And only two days later, the next front moved through. This time the forecast was for a faster moving system with slightly lighter winds, so I decided to stay put.

This shows my anchor status through this event.  The dots inside the circle tell the whole story. The wind started strong out of the southeast. As it started to clock around, I let out more anchor chain in preparation for stronger winds from the westerly directions.  The wind blew strong out of the southwest for several hours. At around 8:00 pm all wind suddenly died…within 15 minutes a huge 50 mph front out of the northwest hit the boat and spun me around.  The boat continued around the anchor arch for about 60 feet before the anchor broke loose and the boat started dragging.

 The dots moving straight out toward the circle show the time during which the boat was dragging.  I was standing at the helm, and preparing to start the engines when the anchor reset itself, and started holding a new arch pattern.  By 8:30, I was confident the anchor had reset itself, but the adrenaline was already pumping. There was little sleep that night, as the wind continued to scream out of the northwest for the next 12 hours! Waves got pretty big, and conditions were rough, but the anchor held tight!

The next few days were actually quite nice…

I saw an amazing Space X launch

It seemed like every time I considered jumping in for a swim, this large bull shark showed up to dissuade me.  With my luck recently, probably best to stay in the boat!

Enjoyed a lovely Easter potluck at Flo’s Conch Bar. Chester, the owner, invited all anchored cruising boats to participate.

With several negative Covid tests, Keith purchased tickets to fly to Great Harbour on April 6.  I reserved a slip at the marina (this is not the $600/night marina) to make it easy to pick him up. However, on April 3,  Keith called to tell me he had a fever, and back ache…UGH!!! Does he have Covid after all??  By the next morning, he was driving himself to the hospital, where he would end up spending several days admitted with a blood clot in his right lung.

I took the boat to the marina, and extended my reservation for two weeks.  I flew back to Maryland to see Keith, after being apart for a full month.  My plan is to return to the boat in a few days, and prepare the boat to cross back to the U.S.  My son, Matthew, will be joining me to do an overnight passage on April 19th.


My view while flying over the Bahamas.

My view while flying over the entire east coast of the U.S.!

I am happy to report that Keith has been released from the hospital, and is starting to feel better! 










Dominican Republic to Bahamas