Sunday, April 30, 2023

Treasures of Abaco

After leaving Green Turtle Cay, our next stop was Crab Cay. Again, this location offered protection from NE winds (which were still a problem) while providing several recreational activities.  We would have loved to snorkel the barrier reefs, shown in the upper right hand corner of this picture, but they had large waves crashing over them at the time we were there.
We were able to dive three shallow wrecks in the very calm and protected anchorage, and had a wonderful afternoon exploring the mangroves, where we saw over 100 turtles in one tiny branch!





So glad Eddie and Gail like to explore every nook and cranny too😁

Water clarity wasn’t great, but there was a lot of life at these wreck sites.


You can’t see me!  Gail won the ‘spotter’ award when she pointed out this lizardfish, and two thumbs up to Eddie for identifying this odd creature!

Finally, the winds are dying down, and the forecast is for two days of calm conditions. It’s time to leave this busy anchorage and head even farther off the ‘beaten path’.

As you can see, this tiny (quarter mile long) island is surrounded by reefs.  This is our idea of paradise…a snorkelers paradise!  There was still some wave action when we arrived, so we anchored on the west side of the island and hoped the forecasts for calm would come to fruition over night.


The beach on the western side was spectacular, and the sunset provided fabulous color!

I read that the houses on the island are used as rentals, but no one was there during our visit.

The next day, we were not disappointed!




Lucky for you lobster season is closed!

In addition to having perfect weather, a beautiful beach, and great snorkeling…we were able to share the experience with our good friends on Seaquel and Follow Your Arrow, and we were the only boats there…WOW!




This has been my favorite place in all of the Abacos.



One day, it would be nice to share this place with my children and grandchildren!














































Monday, April 24, 2023

Man O War to Green Turtle

I am writing this post from Stuart, Florida.  We crossed the Gulf Stream, from West End, Grand Bahama Island to St. Lucie Inlet, Florida on Saturday, April 22.  Our last two weeks, in the Bahamas, were spent exploring some of the small outer islands along the northern part of the Abaco chain.  These islands are secluded, uninhabited, and with very poor cell signal…so, I have been unable to upload pictures, and am (once again) behind in my posts.  This entry will take you from Man-O-War Cay to Green Turtle Cay.



On September 1, 2019, Man-O-War Cay was devastated by hurricane Dorian.  Many people came to help rebuild, and before they left they added their hometown to this post.  Happy to see representation from Folly Beach!




This island is very lush (compared to most Bahamian islands), and we were happy to see many large trees survived the hurricane.



There are many examples of ‘old’ and ‘new’, with rebuilding and repair ongoing.

This island actually has a hill, which definitely helped with storm surge.

We have seen hundreds of coconuts on the ground, but rarely do we see one sprouting/growing into a tree.

We haven’t seen very many baseball diamonds in the Bahamas.  Have you ever watched a ball game with this kind of view?

Tiny house before it was cool!

This island is known for boat building.

From here, we planned to visit Great Guana Cay, but we had to cut that island short due to incoming high winds.  Between Great Guana Cay and Green Turtle Cay is an island called Whale Cay. There is a huge shoal between Whale Cay and Great Abaco, which precludes large boats from taking that route.  Large boats must pass outside of Whale to continue north, and northeast winds can create treacherous conditions. The forecast was for NE winds of 30+ mph for 4 consecutive days.  Predictions were for waves to build to 12-14 feet😬.  Our choices were to stay at Great Guana for a week, or take the opportunity to pass around Whale before the winds arrived.  

We anchored at Great Guana for one night, but didn’t go ashore at all.

Also, we have been having some issues with our inReach freezing up at times.  We did NOT pass Whale Cay on the southwest side!  The light blue line shows a more accurate route.

However, when Keith dove the anchore (to make sure it was set securely in the sand) he happened upon this…

Do you see a sea urchin in this picture?

They like to use debris from the bottom to camouflage themselves. Keith was going to dispose of the bottle, but the urchin would not let it go!

Keith was able to relocate this starfish away from our anchor chain👍

We made it around Whale, and got safely anchored behind Green Turtle before the winds arrived.

And in between traveling, boat projects happen. Here, Keith is sitting in the bilge working on a pump.

After a few days of bad weather we were ready to explore the island.

Fun times with Gail and Eddie!

Ohhhh, the ocean side is ROUGH!

The town has a one way loop road.

This is a typical Bahamian cemetery. Graves are enclosed in concrete to ensure hurricanes/storm surge does not float caskets.

Loyalist Memorial Sculpture Garden - The plaque reads…”Divided by Civil War, defeated in battle, stripped of property and possessions, persecuted and exiled by their neighbors, American Loyalists abandoned their homeland to seek their King’s protection in the Bahama Islands.”

‘The Old Jail’ was built in the mid 19th century, and was destroyed by a category 5 hurricane in 1932.

The wind is still blowing strong, but the water is calm on the west side of the island!






















































Tuesday, April 11, 2023

Heading To The Abacos

Spanish Wells was our last stop before leaving Eleuthera to head to Abaco.  We spent a few days in the area…enjoying the town, and (of course) snorkeling!  Keith wanted to revisit the spot, where last year we saw numerous crawfish (also known as lobster).



It was March 26 with only five days left in crawfish season, and Keith spotted a BIG one.  Luckily, the water was only about 8 feet deep, so coming up for air was fairly easy.  Getting the lobster out of it’s hidy hole was NOT easy.  Here are a few pictures from the epic battle. Spoiler alert- in the end, Keith won!




Most of the battle looked like this.  Keith would surface for a deep breath, then dive down and stick his arm in the cave/hole and try to pull the lobster out.  However, the lobster was well anchored, and was armed with sharp points with the intention of inflicting a little damage himself.  As the battle ‘raged’ on the lobster lost legs and antennas, while Keith suffered numerous scrapes, cuts, and punctures.



All of this action attracted a little attention…thankfully, not from a shark.
There was definitely the smell of lobster in the water, and this ray was looking for an easy meal.  Keith abandoned the hole, and let the ray investigate.  The ray circled many times, and hovered directly over the hole, but finally realized no lobster was forthcoming…so, Keith went right back to work.



Finally, Keith prevailed and a large lobster tail was his prize…along with antibiotic ointment and band aides😉

On March 28, we had a nice weather window to cross the 55 miles in the Atlantic, from Eleuthera to Abaco.  One of the stops we prioritized, while visiting Spanish Wells, was a visit to the seafood and bait store to purchase ballyhoo rigs so we could troll during our crossing…and that purchase paid off!



Our first Mahi Mahi came several feet out of the water when he hit the bait.  Landing a fish on this boat is definitely a team sport.  I was at the helm, and since Keith saw the fish hit the hook we were quick to respond.  I pulled the throttles back to idle speed, and left the boat in auto helm.  I called ‘fish on’ over the VHF radio, to alert the boats with us that we were fighting a fish.  Keith reels the fish in from the top deck while I prepare to step onto the swim platform to ‘land’ the fish.  This process entails me tying a safety line across the stern (to keep me onboard), getting a life jacket on, and preparing the net or gaff, whichever is needed for the size.  Once Keith gets the fish close enough to my position, I either scoop or stab…then pull the fish onto the swim platform to wait for Keith to come down to the cockpit to help me get it into the boat.  Once aboard we pour cheap rum into the fishes gills, and they are instantly subdued.  This fish was 37” and weighed 11 pounds, so it was easy to catch with the net.



Our second catch started out very differently.  I was at the helm, and Keith went to the bow to read.  I heard a strange tap sound…not the usual ZING…….that happens when a fish hits the line. I glanced over my shoulder and noticed the rod was a little bent, but again no line was being pulled out.  After closer inspection, I saw the line tangled around the tip of the rod.  I looked back into the water and saw, what looked like a hat being pulled through the water. I pulled the throttles back, and called for Keith…not sure if we had a fish or trash on the hook.
It was a fish, but if you look closely you will see the hook is under a flap of skin on its head.  Apparently, this one missed the bait, but got hooked anyway.  I have no idea how long we were pulling this poor thing through the water, but he/she was definitely exhausted when we got her onboard.  This one was 39” and weighed 12.5 pounds, but was still easy to net. My fillet knife was busy that day, and we ended up with 8 lbs of Mahi fillets. Between lobster and fish, our freezer is full again!



This overly friendly guy greeted us, as soon as we tied our dinghies to the mooring ball, as we prepared to snorkel Coral Garden at Sandy Cay.  Clearly there is some tour boat that feeds this turtle regularly!


Other snorkeling trips have been equally fruitful.



I’m impressed this adorable place is still standing (kinda). As we move north along the Abacos, the destruction caused by, the category 5, hurricane Dorian is evident.  While these islands have made great strides in rebuilding, there are still many signs of the devastation left behind.



Hope Town seems to be making great strides in the recovery.  


This is our view from anchor.


It’s always fun to climb a lighthouse.  “This red and white striped monument to the past is the only kerosene powered, hand cranked lighthouse left in the world. It is a true marvel to behold, and a fascinating piece of engineering. Built in the 1860's, this British Imperial lighthouse has stood the test of time.”  (Bahamasairtours.com)


This mechanism contains a weight on a cable that must be hand wound each day.  When the weight is released, the gears turn the lens, which rides on rollers, as the weight descends through the night.

I don’t care who you are…that is COOL!




The views from the top are amazing!  The first shot is the view, facing east, of the harbor, town, and Atlantic.  The second pic is the view of the Sea of Abaco to the west.  The colors are stunning!


The town was bright and lush.


I love these ‘streets’


During an impromptu snorkeling experience, to Fowl Cay, we were rewarded with our first (this year) glimpse of an octopus.  It was a windy day, and as I was preparing to make lunch Keith suggested a quick dinghy ride around the corner…just to see what is there. We ended up at Fowl Cay, me in a beach chair with a book, and Keith snorkeling very shallow water near the beach.


The area was mainly flat and sandy with a little grass.  There was a strange rock, in 3 ft of water, that had a suspiciously large number of shells littered around. An octopus was hiding under the ledge of the rock, and was using the three larger conch shells to close off the entry. Keith could see the octopus behind the shells, and attempted to move a shell to get a picture…but the octopus was having none of that! The octopus had a grip on the back side of the shells, and when Keith was only able to move a shell and inch or two before it snapped back into place 😂



Finally, he gave up and wedged the camera into a crack and snapped a picture with the hope of capturing some proof of the octopus…yep, I’d say he got proof.  Of course, I was clean and showered with no intention of getting in the water that day, but…how can anyone take a pass on an octopus.  Wet I got!


Double win…on the other side of that rock was a spotted moray.



Continuing north, and thoroughly enjoying our last few weeks…before we need to return to the US😟








































The Continuing Saga

  Well, another month has passed since my last post, and I must report that our trying times have continued to haunt us.  Not sure if we sho...