We absolutely loved our time in Tobago. I would rate this anchorage as my second favorite in the Caribbean…only behind Chateaubelair, St. Vincent. The island was peaceful, beautiful, and well kept. They seem to be making an extraordinary effort to make this island attractive to tourists. In my book, their mindfulness pays off!
The landscape is beautiful!
This flyer sums up my feeling of how this community is working to make tourism a priority. However, not in a big resort ‘bring in the big bucks’ vibe, but more in a down to earth ‘make people feel comfortable and welcome in our village’ way.
This hillside cemetery is right next to the immigration office.
This island had the most friendly and polite Customs and Immigration officials we have met anywhere in the Caribbean! After checking in, we asked where they would recommend for lunch.
This is the view from Sharon & Phoebe’s
The food was delicious! Customers only need to choose the protein here. Our choices were fish, chicken, or shrimp, and Keith and I both chose shrimp. All of the sides come on every plate, which seems to be common practice in the southern Caribbean. Also, these sides are the standard in T&T (Trinidad & Tobago)…rice, pigeon peas (usually cooked in coconut milk), mac&cheese, and a small salad. This plate also included some steamed mixed veggies, but this was the first time we have seen mixed veggies included.
Back in the anchorage…
Dash was the first one to visit our boat. He makes a living as a fisherman, and a fish tour operator. We agreed to hire Dash to take us fishing the following morning.
It was a very rough trip out, and we didn’t realize, until later, that Dash has one of the smaller boats! Keith ended up being drenched with salt spray. I’m not sure if I chose the right side of the boat, of if Dash is a gentleman and intentionally took the waves on Keith’s side…either way, I was thankful🤣
Things calmed down, a bit, once we got behind some small islands.
Time to transfer fuel😳
The way they fish is very basic, but effective. They use a hardline (there are no rods & reels here) wrapped around a ring, and they hook the line to a bamboo ‘outrigger’ so they can run a line on the other side of the boat, as well.
Unfortunately, we didn’t catch any fish that day, but we had a very enjoyable and educational experience.
The next morning Dash visited our boat with his catch. We were happy to buy this tuna from him, and a few days later we bought a Mahi Mahi…yum! Our freezer got a nice protein boost in Tobago!
I should have asked more questions, but there seemed to be a code between the local boats that once we hire one to do something for us he becomes our ‘personal concierge’, so to speak. Dash checked on us every morning to see if we needed anything. At the time we were waiting for new membranes for our water makers (which had to be ordered from the U.S.), and he expressed great concern about the status of our package, and whether there was anything he could do to help us. Also, during our time there no other local boat ‘cold called’ us for the purpose of sales and services…interesting!
We actually met Joe first while admiring some local art, in town. Joe explained that he had a boat and would like to visit our boat, but he was preparing for a family funeral and didn’t know when he would be available. We invited him to stop by the boat whenever he was free. So, a few days later he came out to see if we wanted him to take us snorkeling to a spot very few people visited. Of course we said yes!
Side note: during our time together he shared the funeral ‘protocol’ for the village. At first light the men gather to dig the grave. It usually takes about four hours. During this time the women are preparing food. Once the grave is ready, everyone meets at the grave for the service. After the service the women set up food, at a local house or in the church, and the men close the grave. After the grave is closed, “everyone get fed!”
And this might be why few people visit this snorkel spot…
The ride out was quite treacherous! Keith and I were questioning the wisdom of this trip. We would not classify these conditions as compatible with snorkeling! Joe kept reassuring us that he knew of a spot that was calm.
Ultimately, he was correct. He approached the leeward side of a large island, which is home to a huge nesting frigate bird population. There was a small area that was protected from the huge waves and swell wrapping around the island.
It was a decent snorkel spot with a diverse population of fish. The water was surprisingly clear considering the extreme turbulence happening close by. At the moment we are experiencing underwater camera issues…so we didn’t get very many good photos.
The other thing I find incredibly endearing about the people of Tobago is the great care they have for their boats. All of the local boats are well maintained, colorfully painted, and spotlessly clean!
This is also the first place, in the Caribbean (outside of resorts) where we have seen tourists wearing life jackets!
Love the positive and upbeat names!
This is Diamond. She is one of several young lifeguards hired and trained to patrol the anchorage and beaches (on kayaks and paddle boards). Diamond stopped to chat several times while making her rounds. She is a personable and inquisitive young woman. This initiative is another example of Tobago going above and beyond any other island, we have visited, to provide a safe and enjoyable experience for visitors👍
We were finally able to track our package to a town on the southeast side of the island, and decided to rent a car to retrieve it. Having it delivered to Charlotteville was an option, but we really wanted to catch a weather window to cross to Grenada, the next day, and didn’t want to lose track of the package.
During this trip, I felt like a live participant in a 1980’s driving video game. The roads sharp twists, turns, and switchbacks gave way to the checkered warning walls which sent the visual message of probable death if you missed the turn🤣
The scenery was beautiful for the passenger, but the driver dare not take his (Keith was driving) eyes off the road!
Doubles is a street food made from a flavorful chickpea stew (called channa) scooped onto two small yellow flatbreads (called bara). The channa is topped with a splash of green sauce (shallow benny- mixture of herbs) and a splash of tamarind sauce (adding slight sweetness). The combination is AMAZING! 👍👍 for Doubles!
After we each had a doubles, Keith opted for a second
While I ventured further into the culinary experience by opting for a chicken pie. It was delicious, but unlike any chicken pie I have ever tasted. It was more like a thick curry sandwich. The bread, which they call a bake, is made from fried dough🤷♀️ You are meant to tear a piece of bread and scoop some of the filling. Warning: never attempt to eat anything (that contains meat) like a sandwich, or you will break a tooth! If you order something with meat it is guaranteed to have bones. My chicken pie contained several smaller bone pieces, and an entire leg bone.
A beautiful sunset for our last night here.
With our water maker membranes onboard, it is time to take advantage of this weather window (calling for 4-5 foot waves at a 7 second period😬) and head for Grenada. It was sad to say goodbye to Tobago!
