Thursday, July 24, 2025

Trinidad

 On June 19, I escorted Anna home to Jacksonville, and on the 21st I returned to Grenada ready for our final leg to Trinidad.  At that time, we were anchored on the southern side of the island. However, a slight change in wind direction caused condition to deteriorate in the anchorage.  The boat was rolling so badly that Keith couldn’t safely launch the dinghy, which left me to hitch a ride with a local, to get back to the boat upon returning from the airport.

In addition to the uncomfortable anchoring conditions, the cap on my back tooth fell off, and I needed to visit a dentist.  I did attempt to glue it back on myself (I wouldn’t recommend this), but it was sitting too high, and then I couldn’t really chew on either side because my back teeth were hitting.  Luckily, my repair job only lasted two days before the cap fell off again.  Under these circumstances we knew we had to move to a calmer location.  We were able to get a slip at Port Louis Marina in St Georges, where we spent our last few days in Grenada tied to a very protected dock.  

This location made it easy for me to taxi to a dentist.  Let me just say that this was not an ‘American’ dental experience!  The cap did get reattached, but there was unnecessary pain involved, AND the conditions appeared to be less than sterile.  I now realize that my perspective is skewed, and I am spoiled by my previous dental experiences.  In short I will just second…”Grenada is not known for their stellar dental standards” (this was a comment I received from a Facebook post requesting the name of a local dentist). Anyway, after this experience, I didn’t want to venture to a doctor regarding a skin issue I was also having (this was potentially a dangerous decision…more on that later).


Our reservation, at Peake Yacht Services, was for a haul out date of July 1.  We were looking at a possible weather window, for our crossing, on June 28. This last leg was just over 100 miles, and we planned for a 14 hour trip.

Trinidad is the first country we have visited, which requires incoming vessels to submit a ‘float plan’ before leaving the previous port. This plan must include the date/time and location of departure, the date/time and location of arrival, as well as, the expected route.  Apparently, several years ago when Venezuela was in the peak economic and social turmoil there were some instances of piracy on recreational vessels approaching Trinidad. At one point, Trinidad sent a military escort vessel to accompany boats from Grenada to Trinidad. Since that time, things have calmed down significantly, and I am not aware of any recent attacks. However, Trinidad has continued some of the protocols to ensure the safe passage of vessels.

Do you see Trinidad?  This diagram is from a 2024 publication about piracy in Venezuela.
Zona de Peligro = Danger Zone😳 If you draw a straight line from southern Grenada to northwestern Trinidad you will see that our route did pass through the edge of red.


The weather forecast did hold for the 28th, and needless to say, while underway we kept a very vigilant watch in all directions.
The water in this part of the ocean behaved oddly.  The surface would be very choppy and confused in one area, and dead calm in an area close by. 


Another strange sight for us was the water color. Once we got within 40 miles of Trinidad, the water color took on a slate hue.  

The water was still clear, but the color didn’t have any of the usual blue/green characteristics.  We were later told that the water color is due to the large discharge from several Venezuelan rivers.  

From a distance, Keith was yelling “pirates of the Caribbean”…once he zoomed in with the camera lens, it was clearly an oil drilling rig 🤣. There were many oil platforms in this water, and many pipelines along the bottom.  We wondered if these features played any role in the strange water conditions we witnessed.


Here is our view from the helm as we approach land. You can clearly see one land mass on the right side of the picture, and a land mass on the left.  In this case, we want to stay LEFT!  The right is Venezuela and the left is Trinidad.  We were advised to take the route that cut between Trinidad and some smaller island…not the route following the main channel between the two countries. The route we took placed us 12 miles from Venezuela, while the ‘main channel’ route places you within 5 miles of the Venezuelan coast.

As we turned the corner to enter the anchorage area, we were greeted with this beautiful sunset reflection.

Once we got anchored in Chaguaramas it was time to return our attention (and efforts) to preparing the boat for an extended abandonment.  I hate to use that word, but that is how it felt.  I’m not sure if I have explained this before, but leaving the boat was not part of our original plan! 

The plan was to hop down the Caribbean chain, with the idea of being south of the ‘hurricane belt’ (area between 12° N latitude and 32° N latitude where the majority of hurricanes form) by July. Then, continue west toward Panama (staying below the 12° latitude line until November) then head north through Central America, visiting Costa Rica, Belize, and Mexico before making our way to Texas.  The problem is that our original timeline was absurd! As it turns out, we had to skip many/ most of the Caribbean islands in order to get far enough south before hurricane season.

The decision to spend another cruising season in the Caribbean was obvious, but the question became what to do until November. The first option we considered was to stay on the boat spending time in Grenada, Trinidad, and Tobago. However, after talking with people who have experienced the reality of summer close to the equator.  We heard many stories of how oppressive the heat and humidity are during the months of August and September. This, coupled with the fact that we were missing family and friends, made our decision to store the boat for 5 months, very easy.

We were also incredibly lucky to get a reservation at Peake Yacht Services, the #1 rated storage facility in Trinidad!

Now to prepare the boat…
One of my top priorities was to protect the exterior teak.  The boat came with a collection of covers, but some were missing, some needed repair, and some needed alterations.  I was lucky to find material while in Martinique.

Right on schedule…at 11:00 am on July 1, we were radioed to enter the travel lift slip. This is the most nerve wracking time…no one likes to see their boat swinging😬

This place hauls so many boats, they have this process finely tuned. They transferred Right Hand to a trailer to free up the travel lift for the next boat. You can see them already entering the chamber.

They backed her up all the way to our designated spot.

And in short order, she was blocked and braced.

Within a few days, the open space in front was packed!

Alma Joy has many positive features, and we have discovered another wonderful aspect of her large size. We were able to fit all of our top deck toys inside the dinghy. There are two kayaks, one paddle board, and two electric bikes tucked neatly beneath that cover!

The blue canvas covers look so nice!

Oops…there’s a repair I forgot to make.

This was the other really stressful part of our preparations to leave. Our boat was fully provisioned for a possible war.  We carried so many dry goods and emergency supplies that we could have easily survived for 9-12 months if something had happened. However, now all of that food had to be removed to ensure we weren’t going to attract insects and rodents.  We did relocate a large Yeti cooler to the pilot house bench, and I packed it with unopened items that had ‘best by’ dates of 2026 or later. I included bay leaves, cloves, and cinnamon bark throughout to deter insects.  The cooler is tightly sealed to make entry by rodents impossible. The only concern is if something I stored is carrying some type of eggs that might hatch🤷‍♀️. We shall see! In the meantime, there were some very happy marina workers who went home with many bags of food. 


During our week of boat prep, we decided to take advantage of a turtle nesting excursion. It was explained as a 9 hour commitment consisting of a two hour drive each way, and possibly 5 hours of waiting for turtles. We traveled to Matura, on the east coast of Trinidad, and waited at the pavilion for a turtle sighting.  Trinidad does an excellent job of protecting the turtles. No one is allowed on the beach except a few trained guides. They spot the turtles, and wait until the digging process has begun before people are allowed to go out on the beach to witness the laying of eggs. Apparently, once the turtle starts laying eggs the turtle enter a trance like state where human contact does not disturb them.

“Trinidad is one of the top three nesting sites in the world for endangered leatherback turtles. Generally seen on the north and northeastern coast of Trinidad during the period March to August, the Leatherback Turtle (Dermochelys Coriacea) is one of the world’s largest living reptile, with some weighing up to 728 kilograms with carapace lengths of approximately 125 – 245cm. In Trinidad, three of the more accessible beaches for viewing nesting Leatherbacks are Matura, Grande Riviere and Fishing Pond. Visitors must be accompanied by a licensed tour guide, in order to view Leatherback nesting at night.” https://visittrinidad.tt/things-to-do/sites-attractions/leatherback-turtles/



Unfortunately, we waited there from 7:00 p.m. until 1:00 a.m. and did not leave the visitor’s pavilion. There was no turtle sighting on that beach all night. We speculated that the surf was possibly too rough.  If a turtle were to get flipped over it has no way to right itself. That would be almost certain death (obviously not on this well manned beach, but the turtles don’t know that).  It is also true that we were visiting at the end of the nesting season so maybe we just missed the event.  People who visited a few days earlier were lucky enough to see a turtle laying eggs, and baby turtles hatching from a different nest…wow!  The only turtle we saw was the mosaic one on the tile floor.

It was 1:00 a.m. when we called it quits, and we still had a 90+ minute ride back to the marina.  The road to the turtle center was a bouncy, bumpy dirt road that was cut through very dense rain forest.
Are you kidding me? At some time during the night, a tree fell across the road (bringing down several smaller trees with it) while we were there, and we were trapped on the inside in the rain forest. We had to return to the turtle center, where they were able to contact help. When we returned to the tree there was a vehicle on the other side, and several men with chain saws working on the tree(s).  

Keith jumped right in there to help drag branches as they were cut.

We were able to get on the road at 2:20, and arrived back to the boat at 4:00 a.m.  The next morning we were regretting that decision! We still had a lot of prep work before our July 7 flight back to the U.S., and we were dragging.

There was some excitement at the marina, the next day. A juvenile whale shark made a wrong turn and got caught between the dock and the beach. It did finally get out to deeper water, but it was a stressful situation. Unfortunately, I read a few days later that the whale shark was found dead in a different location😢


 
On July 7, we flew from Trinidad to BWI airport, and on July 9, we picked up our ‘land yacht’ for our  next set of adventures.  Once we made the decision to leave the boat, for hurricane season, we had a brief discussion regarding what we might want to do during our time away from the boat.  We quickly agreed that some land travel would be a fantastic way to use that time. Within a week, Keith found the perfect camper for our travels.  We have spent the last two weeks turning the camper into our home, and we will soon be off on our next adventure.  The only plan we have, at the moment, is to head north.

Personal note: Everything is good now, but on July 8, I visited a Patient First location for a strange skin condition I had been dealing with for a few weeks.  As it turns out, I had a MRSA infection that required both oral and topical antibiotics.  In retrospect, I should have sought medical care much sooner. 




We will be returning to Trinidad in mid November to relaunch the boat, and spend December- June cruising the Caribbean islands. This is Right Hand Life, and since Right Hand is closed down for the next few months, I will not be posting any new blogs until we return to the boat in November.




Sunday, June 29, 2025

Grenadines to Grenada


Our family arrived, in St. Vincent, on the afternoon of May 30, and we decided to immediately head to Bequia.  It was an easy 9 mile cruise, but provided the perfect island getaway for Matt & Beth’s short stay.  However, Anna stayed for three weeks, and joined our cruised down the Grenadines.


Bequia is a very interesting island, and if you have ever read any type of pirate story you have most likely heard of Admiralty Bay.  Due to the protected harbor, and shallow water, it was a coveted location back in the days of Blackbeard and Colonial expansion.  The shallow water provided the perfect location to careen (beach a vessel on its side in order to clean and repair the hull) ships. This quality made Admiralty Bay a valuable location to control.  



More recently, you have probably viewed some of the scenery, as many parts of the first three Pirates of the Caribbean movies were filmed on Bequia. 

Click here to learn more about Bequia…

https://www.bequiatourism.com/history.htm


This was a wonderful location for Anna’s first snorkeling experience, and both Beth and Anna were right at home in the water.


Anna quickly adapted to island life, and devoured the abundant supply of mangoes.  She even agreed to eat them like the island children do, which required a dunk in the water after she finished. 

We enjoyed an island tour in a ‘safari’ like truck.

Part of our island tour included a stop at the whale museum.  Bequia has a rich history of whaling, and is currently one of only four places allowed to whale. They did kill a humpback in May, and many islanders benefited from the meat.  The islanders of Bequia use every part of the whale…nothing goes to waste!




We made dinner reservations for Ken’s Treehouse. This was a delightful experience! After a short taxi ride, that ended at a trail head, and a short hike into the bush, we came upon the treehouse. There are no roads, and everything you see was carried in by Ken.

The view was amazing, and dinner was delicious!  The menu is very short, and you place your order the day before your planned visit. Incredibly, we were the only ones there. I guess dinner adventures aren’t for everyone.  The only challenge we faced was following the trail, out of the bush, in the pitch dark. My only failure in planning was our lack of flashlights. Thank goodness I took my phone, primarily for the camera function, but it became our only flashlight!

Another great thing about Bequia is the ferry service.  Matt & Beth were able to catch the ferry, back to St. Vincent, on the morning of there flight, and we were able to continue south to Mustique.

Mustique is a private island for the rich and famous.  They do have mooring balls, and a beautiful beach, but we could not freely move around the island. We were able to visit the tiny town, which offers a bakery, liquor store, small grocery, and a boutique. We enjoyed a chocolate croissant and headed back to the boat. With Anna onboard, we intentionally schedule short hops from island to island. Mustique offered a nice place for an overnight stop, but we probably won’t stop here again.

We did snorkel from the boat to this beach for our afternoon exercise.  



The next day, we were off to Canouan…one of the islands seriously damaged by hurricane Beryl, last year.
Canouan is a fairly small island with a robust Main Street.


Several of the buildings, along the harbor, are brand new and seem to be finished with reclaimed materials.  They have done a wonderful job of rebuilding here! On the day we had planned to visit the town for lunch, a ferry arrived and disgorged hundreds of people. By the time we arrived there were long lines for each eatery/restaurant. We walked around town, but decided to grab lunch at the beach resort right next to the boat…that ended up being a BIG mistake! 


It was a nice place, but it wasn’t that nice!!

When the bill arrived the total was $230…not surprising, because we were in the eastern Caribbean where the EC dollar is worth .35 of a U.S. dollar, and I expected the bill to be a little higher because this was a resort not a local eatery. However, I was informed that their menu prices were in U.S. dollars😳😳😳. So two burgers, one fish taco, and three ginger ales cost $230 US dollars…unbelievable, and lesson learned! I’ve been watching menu pricing closely, and every menu since that time (and before) has been priced in EC🤷‍♀️

We stopped in Mayreau for one night, but sadly the weather was not cooperating for us to experience Tobago Cays National Park.

The waves were huge, and we were unable to visit any of the reefs.  This is on our ‘must visit’ list, when we return this winter!


Our next stop was Union Island.
This island was absolutely devastated by hurricane Beryl, and the rebuilding seems to be much slower than Canouan. Many waterfront buildings were missing the roof.

Many people are still living in tents.



We decided this was a good place to do a decluttering and donate items.  We have been living on the boat for seven years, and we have bins with ‘we might need these’ items that have never been touched. We were able to pull together 7 bags of household items (clothes, towels, sheets, rugs…etc.) and 6 bags of food.  Since we will be leaving the boat for hurricane season we needed to downsize our food stores anyway. The people of Union were very thankful!
Union Island is the southernmost island, in the Grenadines, that is part of St. Vincent. We checked out of St. Vincent here, and checked into Grenada at our next stop, Carriacou.


Carriacou also suffered tremendous damage from hurricane Beryl.  Our contribution to this island was to eat out, and hire a taxi tour of the island, which ended up being a tour of destruction…very sad! Unfortunately, I suffered a data card failure, and lost my pictures from our island tour (and many others).
 
Of course, we snorkeled in numerous locations during our cruise down the Grenadines. Instead of boring you with a million snorkeling pictures, I decided to compile a collage of our ‘first time’ finds.
Going in clockwise order from top left…a Flying Gurnard, to the right we have a smooth Trunkfish (this was not our first trunkfish, but it was certainly the friendliest.  It seemed to be attracted to my yellow and black GoPro, and followed us for a very long time! Under the trunkfish is a Goldspotted eel snake😬, and finally, in the bottom left corner is a Whitespotted Tilefish.

  • Anna definitely has some mermaid DNA👍👍



In addition to snorkeling Anna stayed busy with a variety of activities…
We made invisible ink, conducted experiments with sunscreen, had numerous engineering challenges, and learned a little about line handling and knot tying.

One thing I learned (much to my dismay) is that, at night, bats will fly in an open window to snack on hanging bananas…yikes😬…the claw marks really freaked me out!


Our last stop, before flying Anna home, is the big island of Grenada.
We started our Grenada adventure by snorkeling the sculpture garden, on the west side of the island.  This garden offers 70+ underwater sculptures, in a fairly large area. On the day we visited, the water clarity was compromised by the recent high wind and wave action. We all agreed that the scenes were quite eerie, in those conditions, and we abandoned our search after seeing only half of the sculptures.

Look what was anchored near us…my Baltimore friends probably recognize the USNS Comfort. We were certainly surprised to see her in Grenada.




During Anna’s last few days with us, we rented a car to explore Grenada…


Of course, waterfall discoveries were on the agenda.

Hiking in the rainforest…beautiful!

This might be more than I signed up for😬

She loved our fresh water fun!!

Goodbye our sweet girl…we will miss you😘



I escorted Anna home on June 19, and returned to the boat on the 21st.

Keith and I then traveled to Trinidad, but those details will have to wait until the next post.


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Trinidad

 On June 19, I escorted Anna home to Jacksonville, and on the 21st I returned to Grenada ready for our final leg to Trinidad.  At that time,...