Terrific Tobago

 We absolutely loved our time in Tobago. I would rate this anchorage as my second favorite in the Caribbean…only behind Chateaubelair, St. Vincent.  The island was peaceful, beautiful, and well kept.  They seem to be making an extraordinary effort to make this island attractive to tourists.  In my book, their mindfulness pays off!

The landscape is beautiful!

This flyer sums up my feeling of how this community is working to make tourism a priority. However, not in a big resort ‘bring in the big bucks’ vibe, but more in a down to earth ‘make people feel comfortable and welcome in our village’ way.

This hillside cemetery is right next to the immigration office.

This island had the most friendly and polite Customs and Immigration officials we have met anywhere in the Caribbean!  After checking in, we asked where they would recommend for lunch.

This is the view from Sharon & Phoebe’s

The food was delicious!  Customers only need to choose the protein here. Our choices were fish, chicken, or shrimp, and Keith and I both chose shrimp. All of the sides come on every plate, which seems to be common practice in the southern Caribbean.  Also, these sides are the standard in T&T (Trinidad & Tobago)…rice, pigeon peas (usually cooked in coconut milk), mac&cheese, and a small salad.  This plate also included some steamed mixed veggies, but this was the first time we have seen mixed veggies included.

Back in the anchorage…

Dash was the first one to visit our boat. He makes a living as a fisherman, and a fish tour operator. We agreed to hire Dash to take us fishing the following morning.

It was a very rough trip out, and we didn’t realize, until later, that Dash has one of the smaller boats! Keith ended up being drenched with salt spray. I’m not sure if I chose the right side of the boat, of if Dash is a gentleman and intentionally took the waves on Keith’s side…either way, I was thankful🤣

Things calmed down, a bit, once we got behind some small islands.

Time to transfer fuel😳

The way they fish is very basic, but effective.  They use a hardline (there are no rods & reels here) wrapped around a ring, and they hook the line to a bamboo ‘outrigger’ so they can run a line on the other side of the boat, as well.

Unfortunately, we didn’t catch any fish that day, but we had a very enjoyable and educational experience.

The next morning Dash visited our boat with his catch.  We were happy to buy this tuna from him, and a few days later we bought a Mahi Mahi…yum! Our freezer got a nice protein boost in Tobago!  

I should have asked more questions, but there seemed to be a code between the local boats that once we hire one to do something for us he becomes our ‘personal concierge’, so to speak.  Dash checked on us every morning to see if we needed anything. At the time we were waiting for new membranes for our water makers (which had to be ordered from the U.S.), and he expressed great concern about the status of our package, and whether there was anything he could do to help us. Also, during our time there no other local boat ‘cold called’ us for the purpose of sales and services…interesting!

And this is Joe…

We actually met Joe first while admiring some local art, in town. Joe explained that he had a boat and would like to visit our boat, but he was preparing for a family funeral and didn’t know when he would be available. We invited him to stop by the boat whenever he was free. So, a few days later he came out to see if we wanted him to take us snorkeling to a spot very few people visited. Of course we said yes!

Side note: during our time together he shared the funeral ‘protocol’ for the village.  At first light the men gather to dig the grave. It usually takes about four hours. During this time the women are preparing food. Once the grave is ready, everyone meets at the grave for the service. After the service the women set up food, at a local house or in the church, and the men close the grave. After the grave is closed, “everyone get fed!”

And this might be why few people visit this snorkel spot…

The ride out was quite treacherous! Keith and I were questioning the wisdom of this trip.  We would not classify these conditions as compatible with snorkeling!  Joe kept reassuring us that he knew of a spot that was calm. 

Ultimately, he was correct. He approached the leeward side of a large island, which is home to a huge nesting frigate bird population. There was a small area that was protected from the huge waves and swell wrapping around the island. 

It was a decent snorkel spot with a diverse population of fish. The water was surprisingly clear considering the extreme turbulence happening close by.  At the moment we are experiencing underwater camera issues…so we didn’t get very many good photos.

The other thing I find incredibly endearing about the people of Tobago is the great care they have for their boats.  All of the local boats are well maintained, colorfully painted, and spotlessly clean!

This is also the first place, in the Caribbean (outside of resorts) where we have seen tourists wearing life jackets!

Can you find Right Hand in the Popeye picture?

Love the positive and upbeat names!

Thankfully, the anchorage offered several easy access (and beautiful) beach opportunities…

This is Diamond. She is one of several young lifeguards hired and trained to patrol the anchorage and beaches (on kayaks and paddle boards). Diamond stopped to chat several times while making her rounds. She is a personable and inquisitive young woman. This initiative is another example of Tobago going above and beyond any other island, we have visited, to provide a safe and enjoyable experience for visitors👍

We were finally able to track our package to a town on the southeast side of the island, and decided to rent a car to retrieve it.  Having it delivered to Charlotteville was an option, but we really wanted to catch a weather window to cross to Grenada, the next day, and didn’t want to lose track of the package.

During this trip, I felt like a live participant in a 1980’s driving video game. The roads sharp twists, turns, and switchbacks gave way to the checkered warning walls which sent the visual message of probable death if you missed the turn🤣

The scenery was beautiful for the passenger, but the driver dare not take his (Keith was driving) eyes off the road!

After retrieving our package from a house with a tiny FedEx sign in the driveway, we set out to find lunch. Doubles is the ‘must try’ food item while visiting T&T, and we were very lucky to find Sue’s for our Doubles experience.

Doubles is a street food made from a flavorful chickpea stew (called channa) scooped onto two small yellow flatbreads (called bara).  The channa is topped with a splash of green sauce (shallow benny- mixture of herbs) and a splash of tamarind sauce (adding slight sweetness). The combination is AMAZING!  👍👍 for Doubles!

After we each had a doubles, Keith opted for a second

While I ventured further into the culinary experience by opting for a chicken pie. It was delicious, but unlike any chicken pie I have ever tasted. It was more like a thick curry sandwich. The bread, which they call a bake, is made from fried dough🤷‍♀️ You are meant to tear a piece of bread and scoop some of the filling.  Warning: never attempt to eat anything (that contains meat) like a sandwich, or you will break a tooth! If you order something with meat it is guaranteed to have bones. My chicken pie contained several smaller bone pieces, and an entire leg bone.

A beautiful sunset for our last night here.

With our water maker membranes onboard, it is time to take advantage of this weather window (calling for 4-5 foot waves at a 7 second period😬) and head for Grenada.  It was sad to say goodbye to Tobago!

If You Can’t Take The Heat

 At 6:25 a.m. on November 6, we watched the sun rise over the Chesapeake Bay from the window of our flight to Trinidad.

We landed in Trinidad at 3:30 in the afternoon, but after Customs & Immigration and a shuttle running late to get us, we didn’t arrive at the marina until 7:00 p.m.  Thankfully, the marina has a building with several hotel rooms…and double thankfully, I had the foresight to book one for our first few nights. 

The next morning we enjoyed our coffee on the deck in front of our room. We sat there for quite some time entertained by the boats being launched. There were two reasons we were not in any hurry to make our way to Right Hand. First, it was hot…I mean HOT! Even sitting in the shade with a breeze blowing off the water was hot, so we knew the boat yard would be terrible. Our second reason for lollygagging was the dread of what we might find. I have read many stories of people leaving their boat in storage only to return to mold, mildew, insect and rodent infestations…ugh!

I am super happy to report that once we did get up the nerve to go to the boat, we were pleasantly surprised by the interior condition! We saw none of the horrors I imagined. Aside from a little dust, and a few very small cobwebs she was in the same condition as when we left. Ahhh…what a relief!  Since many people who receive this blog are boat friends, I will take a minute to tell you the prep steps that seemed to make a difference.

Clearly, the most important part of our prep was dehumidifiers. We placed two large units in the boat, and set the humidity level for 55. The unit in the main living space sat on the galley counter, and the drain went directly into the sink drain.

All furniture was covered with sheets, and all exterior cushions were stored inside.

All windows were covered, from the outside, to keep the harsh sunlight out.

The dehumidifier in the lower part of the boat (for bedrooms and bathrooms) drained directly out an open thru hull. Additionally, bronze wool was placed inside the hoses, and all exterior hull openings to ensure bees could not enter the unit/boat.

I was absolutely amazed that all of my ‘space bags’ still held the vacuum seal😳.  All of the pillows, blankets, and bedspreads were still clean and fresh👍

I mentioned in my last blog the steps we took to remove all food items. The dry goods, left in the Yeti, survived the four months perfectly. Any canned or jarred food kept onboard was stored in a plastic Rubbermaid container in case something decided to leak, but all items were still in excellent condition. It was wonderful to come back to so much food, as groceries are crazy expensive here. To give you a comparison, ground beef is $15 per pound!

After several days of cleaning and organizing, we decided it was time for a little fun so we rented a car to visit a hummingbird sanctuary, Yerette. It actually turned out to be the garden of a lovely couple, but it was a spectacular experience. Keith and I were the only visitors on this day so we had the whole place to ourselves.

This is Theo, he and his wife own and run this property. Theo is a hummingbird expert, and he spent about 90 minutes teaching us about hummingbirds. There are 15 species that visit Yerette. 

http://www.yerettett.com/hummingbirds

We learned so much…did you know:

Hummingbirds are only in the western hemisphere, only in the Americas?

They are the #1 pollinators of the Amazon 

There are a total of 366 species 

The smallest weighs only 1.8 grams and is only found in Cuba 

Their resting heart rate is 500 bpm, flying heart rate is 1500 bpm 

They are the only birds that can fly backwards, upside down, vertical, and can hover without wind 

If my count is accurate, we saw 8 different species during our visit.

After our personal lessons, Theo’s wife Gloria served us a delightful lunch with incredible views!

In Trinidad they have an easy term that is used to describe hanging out or relaxing with friends and/or family. That term is to Lime. 

There were beautiful trees behind the boat that provided hours of entertainment.

November 18 was launch day👏👏👏

As soon as we got launched and anchored a mist descended down the mountain and created the most awesome low rainbow…icing on the cake!

Up to this point, I haven’t mentioned the elephant in the room, but now it is impossible to ignore.  When we left Trinidad in July, it was impossible to predict how much could change in four months. During our time away, a huge destabilizing shift has come to the southern Caribbean. I was following the news in Trinidad and Grenada, and was a little apprehensive about what exactly we would find upon our return. We asked several Trinis about American sentiments, in light of the situation, and they assured us that we would be safe. 

The headlines communicate the uncertainty and fear.

On our second day in the water we noticed a lot of military activity. We heard 8 or 9 loud explosions that morning, and had several military aircraft fly over us during the day. It was reported that U.S. and Trinidad forces were conducting practice bombing runs.

The strangest realization was that there were 8 Venezuelan fishing boats anchored near us at that time. While our boat was only 13 miles from Venezuela, I did not expect Venezuelan fishing boats to be here. The other strange thing was these Venezuelan fishermen were very friendly. They seemed intrigued by our boat and the workings of our systems. They sat of the bow watching intently as we used our crane to lower the dinghy, and gave us a thumbs up after we launched Alma🤣

This is how most boats in the Venezuelan fishing fleet look.

They are all flying a Venezuelan flag.

The feeling of being in the wrong place at the wrong time was real! Luckily, the weather would allow us to leave Trinidad and travel to Tobago on November 21, so we visited the Immigration office for our dispatcho, and left Chaguaramas.

We moved only 4.5 miles away to Scotland Bay to stage for an early morning exit. 

I think these guys liked our boat, because they flew over several times😳

We are currently anchored in Charlotteville, Tobago…96 miles from Venezuela. The orange dot is where Chaguaramas is located😬

Here’s your sign…just as we saw the island of Tobago this beautiful rainbow arch welcomed us.

Tobago has dolphins!! It has been a long time since we have seen 🐬 dolphins

As we passed the last rock face, before entering the harbor, we noticed strange mist rising. Upon closer inspection there were several blow holes in the rock.

This is Charlotteville, Tobago♥️

And this young man was our welcoming committee. He really wanted to tie our dinghy to the dock🤣

I have a good feeling about this island!